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A framed vintage Hermès "Pani La Shar Pawnee" Carré silk scarf

Circa 1984; France
Marked in the weave: Hermès-Paris / Oliver
Designed by Kermit Oliver (b.1943), and entitled "Pani La Shar Pawnee", the silk twill scarf with hand-rolled edges, signed in plate, "Oliver," in blues, greens and reds, designed with a central figure of a seated Pawnee chief on a deep blue field with fine line printed gold figures, and a green and multicolored border with various figures on horseback, professionally mounted and framed behind plexiglas
Scarf: 35" H x 34.5" W

  • Literature:
    This design illustrated: Nadine Coleno, "The Hermès Scarf: History and Mystique" (London: Thames & Hudson, Ltd, 2009), 50, 208-217.
  • Notes:
    Kermit Oliver (b. 1943) is the only American artist to create designs for the French fashion house, Hermès, and this vibrant carré scarf, "Pani La Shar Pawnee," (1984) was his first.

    A celebrated painter who studied and worked in Houston before moving to Waco, Texas, Oliver's work reflects his Texas heritage and his interests in mythology, religion, and history. His paintings create "strange, lushly illustrated worlds populated by people and animals realistically drawn but placed in surreal juxtaposition," both "superbly opulent and generous, full of adventure and history." It was this reputation that led to a successful collaboration with Hermès in the 1980s, leading to sixteen designs by Oliver between 1984-2014.

    Oliver was born in Refugio, Texas, where his father worked as a cowboy on a cattle ranch. His evident talent for drawing the cattle, horses, and the south Texas flora and fauna led him to study at Texas Southern University in Houston, where he was a student of the artist, Dr. John T. Biggers. He graduated in 1967 with Bachelor of Fine Arts and art education degrees. After a short time teaching art, he decided not to pursue teaching as a career, and worked for most of his life as both an artist and a full-time mail sorter for the US Postal Service. This balance of work and art allowed Oliver freedom to maintain a steady income and pursue art on his own terms. He retired from the postal service in 2013 and continued working as an artist. Oliver was the first African-American artist in Houston to be represented by a major gallery and has been featured in numerous exhibitions, including a 2005 retrospective at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston.

    Oliver's relationship with Hermès began in 1980 when Hermès was looking for an American artist to design a scarf with a Southwestern theme, and Oliver was recommended by Lawrence Marcus of Neiman Marcus. As the first of the sixteen scarves, this portrait scarf (1984) depicts Native American "Pani La Shar Pawnee" with key attributes including a peace pipe with a sculpted horse, a feather bundle, and fur, bone, and bead trimmed ornaments and clothing, surrounded by a frieze of riders likely inspired by the sketches of Karl Bodmer, and in the corners are peace pipes and bison skulls "studded" with eagle feathers in multiple colors and offered in various colorways which ultimately required 35 screens to produce the completed design.

    The subsequent Hermès designs of Kermit Oliver explored themes from American history and the natural world. While "a painter first and foremost, Oliver elegantly unites his pictorial compositions with the constraints of the scarf format." Alvia Wardlaw, curator of Oliver's 2005 retrospective exhibition, noted that "The love of flora and fauna that you see in Kermit's art began in that childhood where he was free to roam around Refugio and ride horses and hunt and sketch and draw…His visual sensibility with regards to the Texas landscape which he makes a metaphor for the wonders of the universe was born out of those youthful experiences."

    References:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kermit_Oliver
    Nadine Coleno, "The Hermès Scarf: History and Mystique" (London: Thames & Hudson, Ltd, 2009) 45; 74
    Cheryl Anderson, "Postcards from France," Classic Chicago Magazine, April 15, 2023: https://classicchicagomagazine.com/hermes-designs-and-designers/
  • Condition: Overall good condition with light dust accumulation and faint fold lines commensurate with age. A couple of minor spots to lower right corner and one to lower left navy border edge. Not examined out of frame. Maker and fabric tags not accessible.

    Frame: 39.5" H x 39.75" W x 0.75" D


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